Location: Near Gwangju, Gyeonggi Province, South Korea
Visited: April 18, 2013, May 10, 2014
Site Type: Cultural
Inscribed: 2014
Background and Opinion:
Namhansanseong is a fortress located in Gyeonggi Province just a few kilometers south east of Seoul. Ancient tradition states that it was the birthplace of Onjo, the founder of the Baekje. It is very similar in structure to Hwaseong as what remains today is traced back to that same era (Joseon Dynasty). It is most famous for its siege and defense against the invading Manchu army in the 1600s. Although Joseon eventually did surrender this fort, it was never destroyed as its walls could not be breached. It remains a local favorite for weekend hikes.
Now that I got my venting out of the way, it is time to focus on the things that make Korea, a great place to live, or visit. This is the second list (here is the first) showing the things I love about the RoK that will hopefully encourage some people on the fence to come on over (not talking about North Koreans, you guys probably don’t want to jump that fence… go around).
5) Safety
Credit: youthedesigner.com
This one seems like a very simple thing, but there is something pretty amazing about being in one of the safest countries in the world. Per capita, there are less murders in South Korea than New Zealand. Wrap your head around that one. Even theft and other petty crimes are rather uncommon. Men and women can walk in pretty much any neighborhood, even late at night, without fearing for their lives (although the occasional exhibitionist / pervert does exist). While in the US, just as a precaution, I used to always watch my back at ATMs and was very careful not to show how much money I was carrying. In Korea, I have no fear of carrying a grand or even counting it right after withdrawing to make sure it is all there.
4) Fashion
While it is unlikely you’ll find a good deal buying clothes in Korea, you will probably look fabulous anyways. Koreans are incredibly fashionable (except for those couple dressy people) and look dressed to kill all day, everyday. The women are always seen in high heels with skirts and a nice blouse, even if it is -20 Celsius outside. The men are just as fashionable with crisp pants, nice shirts and in the winter, fantastic jackets. Ladies and gentlemen of Korea, I noticed… and appreciated it :).
3) Clubbing and Partying
Photo Credit: blog.loveazia.com
I have never been a big partier or had a need to get trashed every weekend due to a rare disorder I’ve had since an early age. It is called “NotCoolEnough Syndrome.” However, when I do party, I have a two expectations:
It Shouldn’t be Too Expensive – Clubbing is fun, but not $200 worth of fun.
The Party Should be over When I’m Tired – If the lights come on and people are forced to go home, that is a shitty party city. Clubbing pretty much anywhere in LA sucks.
Korea partying can be done cheaply and you can be out pretty much as late as you want.
2) Trust of Teachers
With one of my favorite students.
This one is going to take some explaining.
For the last four years, I worked as an English teacher in South Korea. To be more specific, I taught kindergarten, pre-kinder, pre-school, and elementary. The first year, I normally would post pictures of myself with my students playing, learning, or just carrying them around on Facebook and didn’t think much of it. Imagine an uncle or aunt picking up your children, and that is the kind of interaction teachers have, and are expected to have with their students in South Korea. Then the jokes and ‘serious concerns’ started coming in.
“Aren’t you afraid of being accused ‘of something'” and “that looks so wrong” were just some of the comments that came from friends in the US which highlights an incredible problem. The US is so absolutely terrified of pedophilia, and feel that their fear is the norm, not the exception. This makes working as a kindergarten teacher uncomfortable unbearable.
When I tutored in the US, parents were sure to put me in a public place, even if I was teaching a male high school student. In Korea, teachers are given so much trust, and I think for the most part, the teachers appreciate it and do not violate that trust as they are… wait for it… professionals!
Even to this day, I cannot explain to a group of people in the states that I taught pre-school abroad and show them pictures of myself with any sort of physical contact (such as a hug) without some wise-ass making a pedophilic remark. So for those of you who asked why I don’t make a career of it in the US, this is why.
1) The Music Industry
Korean pop, for the most part is a product of one of the three major record labels: SM, JYP, or YG. The groups are pre-packaged, their personas are given, their music is rarely “deep” or “inspirational” and the stardom that comes with it all, is temporary. I adore that.
There are so many things I hate about the American music industry, starting with the worshiping of a ‘genius’ in music. No matter how good you are, you don’t deserve to be a millionaire and far too many ‘artists’ stick around for way too long (looking at you Kanye).
Many k-pop performers are well aware that their fame is temporary and seek out other more conventional careers in anticipation of the end. In fact, many of the young performers’ careers finish as soon as they enter college because an education is many times considered more important than superstardom (as it SHOULD be). While some do make quite a bit of money and an equally large ego follows, at least we know that in a few years, they will be forgotten.
Next, I strongly dislike how music NEEDS to be meaningful to be considered good. Music elitists of the west: I don’t care to be ‘moved’ or ‘inspired’ with every song. Just because I like pop, doesn’t mean it is ‘bad music.’
As an analogy, I like to compare music with movies. Comedies usually have absolutely no meaning, but they are entertaining. That is why people watch them. The tunes I mostly enjoy is kind of the comedic genre of music and I’m fine with that.
Korean pop is generally catchy and offers me exactly what I am looking for. I don’t think anyone can see Orange Caramel’s song Lipstick (above) and think ‘wow, that was so deep,’ but you know what? It doesn’t matter, that song is still awesome.
I left Korea just a few weeks ago and don’t know if I will come back (probably more a matter of ‘when’). I love an awful lot about this country and another list with the positive things is coming up, but I thought I would start with this one first to get the venting out of the way. This is another list of stuff I hate about the RoK.
Located less than thirty minutes south of the Korean capital is the best preserved city wall in the whole country. Hwaseong is a relatively new fortress (end of the 18th century) built by the Joseon dynasty to defend the city of Suwon and honor the late Prince Sado.
Contrary to most things in Korea, this structure is completely original suffering only minor damage during the Korean War. It has a wonderful river that flows through it and a very impressive flood gate. Walking along the wall is the best way to experience it as you can see some steep drops along the 5.5 km circumference.
After being back in the US for two months and living in my mother’s enormous house, I decided the time had come to return to Korea and seek refuge in a tiny shoebox. I figured a koshiwon wouldn’t be so bad and even romanticized the whole experience as one I would never forget. I was right, but for the wrong reasons.
What is a Koshiwon
A koshiwon is a tiny little place that hardly qualifies as a studio or dormitory. Usually, people who don’t have the money to live in something bigger rent these because they do not require a deposit known as ‘key money’ which can be upwards of 10 grand. The cheapest ones start at 200ish a month and go up depending on location, size, quality, etc. Mine is just under 400 because I had a private bathroom / shower, was in a good area, and I bargained. However, it is still roughly 10 square meters.
Thats from the front door.
My Expectations
The first time I ever heard of a koshiwon was as I passed one on my way to piano school a few years ago. By the description, it seemed like a dorm where young people lived and studied, but had access to unlimited rice, kimchi, water, ramen, and super fast internet. I imagined that much like the dorms in college, it would be crammed, but everyone would see it as part of the experience and grow to love it. I expected a community, and maybe even expected to see the forging of life long friendships. I remember wondering how anyone who experienced this life and independence would ever be satisfied with going back home and living with their parents.
The Reality
To begin, there is no community about it at all. Everyone keeps to themselves and are even more shy about talking to strangers than the average Korean (if you can believe it). I met certain residents in the kitchen and when I said ‘hi,’ they would look up, stare at me for a sec, and go back to what they were doing without saying a word. I was being the weird one.
The age group is also not what I expected. While certain people are young, and increasing number of older people live here too and tent to be even more reclusive than the youngsters. Despite living there for 2 months, I only saw about a fourth of the people on my floor, interacted with a handful, and only one person said more than hi to me. If it wasn’t for the guy who runs the front desk (who turned out to be really cool) I would have gone completely mad.
At least there was a gong Cha nearby.
The Rules
One of the most irritating things about a koshiwon is the plethora of rules and regulations, apparently in place for my satisfaction and safety. When I was hunting for koshiwons, we had to immediately rule out more than half of them because of their strict rules regarding guests. Most do not allow anyone not living there to visit, which for a 28 year old like myself, is completely moronic. As far as I know, I am an adult and who I bring is no one’s business. Thankfully, my koshiwon was pretty cool about this particular cule and I didn’t have to worry about it.
Another annoying rule was about the noise level. I am expected to keep it down at all times no matter what. Like listening to music? Hope you have headphones. Want to watch TV? Minimum volume please. I understand that the walls are paper thin, but it is still not a comfortable place to live.
This is taken from the other end of the koshiwon.
My first few days, I spent an awful lot of time in the kitchen hoping other residents would come in and shoot the shit, but many didn’t even acknowledge my presence. It was, quite frankly, a complete waste of time. Overall, unless I visit Korea long term without a paid apartment, I hope to never see the inside of a koshiwon again. The free detergent and rice were nice, but totally not worth it. Live and learn though.